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Peak Scar

North York Moors

User attention

The Estate has reinstated the fence between the crag and road, volunteers have replaced the stiles, funded by The BMC. Good relations exist with the Estate, which grants permissive acces to the crag. Please respect the fence and use the stiles.

During the storms of 2021 / early 2022, a considerable number of trees were blown down above and around the crag. There has been some clearing up but climbers are advised to exercise caution when accessing and climbing the crag.

from 03/06/2019

The crag has a big feel and can be intimidating. There is a wide range of excellent routes although even the easier grades require a degree of composure and commitment. The blocky structure provides ample protection in the main but also creates some looseness which climbers need to be aware of. There are areas of the crag that appear unstable and should be avoided (see below).

Crag information
Climbing Area: North East Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Estate No. of Routes: 66
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1960
Grid Reference: SE527884

Following a fatality, the BMC agreed the following conditions with the landowner - failure to comply with these requirements could result in a complete ban on climbing:

  • No large groups
  • No outdoor education or instructional groups
  • No dogs
  • All climbers must descend on foot - NO abseiling

The North East England Guide provides warning on the stability of the following routes: Pianissimo to Kestrel, Wings, BBC, Crackers and Gone. Many of the routes have steep grassy top outs.

Parking and Approach

Park offroad on the crag side of the road, large agricultural vehicles regularly use the road so be advised to pull well off. In October 2020, some climbers were challenged about parking in "passing places". There are no known designated passing places adjacent to the crag although the road is narrow, climbers are asked to continue to park considerately and well off the road.

 

Group Advice

The landowner does not permit instructional groups.

Area information

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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Anonymous User
26/09/2021
This afternoon(25/09/2021) I parked my car off the road in the lay-by adjacent to the descent path for the crag. When I returned to my car there was a note saying: 'This is a passing place - Not parking' This lay-by has always been the traditional parking place for the crag.
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    Peak Scar

    North York Moors