Summit Letters

STAR LETTER: No spray like home

2008-05-30T05:51:00.000-07:00

I lived in the States for seven years, and it was in the magical landscape of Utah that I first took up climbing: Potash Road, Indian Creek and the San Rafael Swell are my first climbing memories.The Americans were very proactive about looking after their crags and I always turned up to Access Fund events. There was plenty of ‘spray’, but also lots of hard work and a great feeling of community and goodwill. When I landed in the UK five years ago, I looked for the same sort of thing, but found nothing. However, over the last 18 months or so, I’ve watched a steady stream of BMC initiatives relating to crag regeneration, gardening and other forms of ‘crag husbandry’. Maybe they were happening long before that and I just wasn't looking in the right place, but my message to the BMC is simple – well done. It needs the BMC to organise it because people are generally lazy, but will always follow where the confident lead. I went to the recent Egerton clean up and was delighted to see 20 people cutting, dragging, sawing and, most importantly, having fun. At each Access Fund event, more people always signed up. There was never any shortage of new members, and always plenty of reasons to join. So if you want to increase your membership, you're on the right track. I hope this letter piques other’s interest to find out what's going on at their crags. See you at the next clean-up, especially if there's more free cake!
Liz Davey, Summit 50

See www.thebmc.co.uk/yourbmc for details of the latest crag clean-ups.

Courage

2008-05-30T05:50:00.002-07:00

The courage displayed by many contributors to Summit – most recently by Nigel Vardy in Last Thoughts, issue 49 – has really helped me regain my feet. Just under two years ago I was diagnosed with an aggressive cancer, which led to three bouts of surgery and a prolonged course of radiotherapy. I now no longer have lymph nodes in my lower body, have some very significant scars and lymphodema in my legs and groin. I joined the BMC just before my diagnosis and the inspiration provided by the publications (both web and terrestrial) have helped me in the mental and emotional struggle to recover. Reading of the tenacity shown by others has helped bolster my courage to deal with this illness. I’ve also taken up climbing, albeit still indoor, and hope to undertake some winter mountaineering in early 2009. Thanks for a great publication – it helps in more ways than are immediately apparent.
Seb Morgan-Clare, Summit 50

Wolves at the door

2008-05-30T05:50:00.001-07:00

Does anyone know of any companies than insure outdoor professionals? I know of Perkins Slade and JLT, but the add-ons soon mount up if I want to include all the activities that I offer. I’m an BAIML, BCU, SMBLA, Institute of Outdoor Learning (APIOL) member and there doesn't seem to be any discount for having higher qualifications, like there is for being a advanced driver. Insurance in this large market seems to be a closed shop. The BCU and SMBLA (for mountain biking) offer their own insurance cover depending on the level of membership. Does this mean that mountaineering has to suffer again? I’d be glad of any help in this matter. As a freelance instructor, keeping premiums to a minimum helps keep the wolves from the door.
Stuart Smith, Summit 50

Mountain girl

2008-05-30T05:48:00.000-07:00

‘Mountain Girl’ in Summit 49 was a real breath of fresh air for all us ‘women with altitude’. Being a foot shorter than my male climbing companions, I was left chortling at the descriptions of frustration at not being able to reach the same holds, or not wanting to take the same risks as the boys. It’s really encouraging to see that women do have a place and a voice in serious mountaineering. It was great to see an article on it in Summit, and it proves that it really does cater for all BMC members. Still, with less than 2% of Swiss guides being female, there’s still a long way to go. Keep up the good work.
J. Allsop, Summit 50

STAR LETTER: Call of the wild

2008-04-01T05:50:00.001-07:00

Wolves could be making a comeback in Britain. The last one was variously reported to have been killed in Killecrankie in 1680, or near the river Findhorn in 1743. However, as if we have been missing them, a scheme has been approved to create a home for wolves in a safari park near Inverness and enthusiasts want to release a number into the wild. Given the history of supposedly captive species escaping – Iron Age pigs from Glen Dessarry and mink from Appin - the chances are they’ll get out anyway. I’m no ecological expert, but I expect the wolves will have a fine time eating deer and sheep. This will open a new dimension to winter mountaineering. Imagine sitting round the bothy fire on a snowy night waiting for companions to arrive – or not – with howls resounding around the hills. Fangs for the memory! Will the BMC participation statement cover this risk under ‘danger of personal injury or death’? And why stop at wolves? Why not bring back the bears? Does the BMC have a position on this? Should we welcome the wild becoming a little wilder, and greater ecological diversity? Or should we be concerned over the potential loss of members?
Geoff Nichols, Summit 49

China crisis

2008-04-01T05:49:00.002-07:00

It was with dismay that I learnt that the BMC chose not to make any expression of concern to the UIAA about the shooting of the Tibetan nun in September 2006, as investigated by Ed Douglas in Summit 44. I initially raised the matter at my February area meeting, where it was thought that the BMC should complain to the appropriate authorities - the UIAA. I also introduced the item at the AGM Open Forum, only to be met with a stunned silence. Yet in 1992 the BMC, along with the Chinese Mountaineering Federation, signed the UIAA Kathmandu Declaration. This is nine separate statements of ethical objectives, including “respect for cultural heritage”. At the Open Forum it was quite apparent that quite a few, both on the top table and on the floor, were quite unaware of the Declaration. But thanks to the efforts of my area rep, National Council did discuss the matter in April, and decided to seek some information from Amnesty International – although why it was necessary to approach them is beyond me, the Ed Douglas article was comprehensive enough. In September the Council discussed the matter once more, and again decided to “re-approach Amnesty for an update”. Amnesty replied on November 5th, too late to raise the matter at the October Assembly of the UIAA. I was not seeking to start WW3, merely an expression to the Assembly of concern, yet it seems to me that putting your signature to an international document counts for nothing in the BMC. In his article Ed Douglas asked the question “do mountaineers care?” The answer is obvious.
K.C. Gordon, Summit 49

Exotic disappointment

2008-04-01T05:49:00.001-07:00

I read the Dave Pickford’s article in Summit 48 with great interest. It occurred to me that as access to increasingly remote locations becomes easier, that some sort of 'cautionary tale' database could save an awful lot of disappointment and wasted air miles. I’ve just returned from an extremely unsuccessful climbing trip to Palawan Island in the Philippines. But on a more positive note, I can definitely recommend the island of Soqotra and the northern highlands of Ethiopia.
David Bruton, Summit 49

Trial and error?

2008-04-01T05:48:00.000-07:00

In Out There, Summit 48, it seems rather hypocritical to label all trail riders as “ripping up the countryside near you” and to suggest that they’ll drag your naked body behind their bikes if you dare take down their numbers. As a trail rider for many years (and a climber for almost as many), it seems a bit off to suggest that all trail riders don't respect the countryside, when in fact the Trail Riding Fellowship do a huge amount to keep public rights of way open. By all means let’s stop the law breakers, but don't criminalise the law-abiding folk who are enjoying the countryside in their own perfectly legal way. And anyway, if they've got a number plate they're almost certainly taxed, insured and MOT-ed.
Sam King, Summit 49

A happy reader

2008-04-01T05:47:00.002-07:00

Issue 48, what a corker! Once again setting the standard for outdoor magazines. After being completely inspired by the front cover shot I went on to devour the contents, which I found to be equally as good and nicely varied. I would particularly like to congratulate Andi Turner on his piece The Magic Flute, the best sport climbing essay I've ever read? Certainly up there. I found myself hanging from tufas one minute, and getting ready for a bar brawl the next. Thanks for brightening up November!
Jack Geldard, Summit 49

And a happy customer

2008-04-01T05:47:00.001-07:00

I’ve just renewed my annual insurance policy and am delighted at the price. As a result of your raising the age at which extra premiums are payable, and by buying online, I have saved £100 on my estimate. Great service - congratulations.
Roger Garrett, Summit 49

STAR LETTER: Equal share

2008-01-08T03:35:00.000-08:00

I was delighted to read of Helen Senior's joy in finding climbing, described in Summit 47. Good luck to her - I'd like to wish her lots of happy days out in the hills. However, one thing puzzled me - and I ask this in bewilderment, not criticism. Why on earth did Helen want to take up so much of her time doing her partner's share of the housework? It strikes me as obvious that if you both go out to work, you both do the chores and they should be distributed as fairly as possible. It seems rather pointless of Summit to describe excellent women climbers as role models, or to show a certain percentage of female climbers in photographs, if the vast majority of women don't have time to climb because they're too busy doing a portion of the housework that should be done by someone else - i.e. the male of the species.
Ann Griffiths, Summit 48

Role models

2008-01-08T03:34:00.002-08:00

Thanks for the Role Models article in the last issue. I found it interesting, but there is a trend in the climbing world to treat women as 'different' - so when I see these types of articles my heart does sink a bit. But I guess at the end of the day everyone that climbs is passionate about the sport, and the more we can read about female and male achievements the better. Personally I've been inspired by some very talented female climbers appearing at Bristol Climbing Centre, and it's great to see them climbing and to chat and climb with them on the bouldering wall. It's very sociable and makes all my training worthwhile. At the end of the day all articles go towards inspiring us to get climbing and reach our goals. Whether they be about training, destinations or achievements - both male and female.
Karen Balmforth, Summit 48

A real disgrace

2008-01-08T03:34:00.001-08:00

"National Disgrace" was the headline in one news item in Summit 45, but it was in the wrong place - it should have been above the Better Bolts item. I consider it a national disgrace that the national representative body for climbing see fit to replace bolts that deface the landscape, whilst claiming to have a minimal bolts policy. The fact that someone saw fit to deface the rock in the first place does not mean that the BMC should waste our money replacing them. The money would be better spent removing the bolts and restoring the rock. Bolts are litter, no different to the rest of the rubbish left around the crags. We should be trying to fix the problem by objecting to bolts not creating it. Bolts are not the answer but education is. This stand by the BMC has meant that although you do a lot of very good work, I feel unable to support you if you are willing to do things like this.
Christopher Parker, Summit 48

Too much creamer?

2008-01-08T03:32:00.001-08:00

I enjoyed Mick Ryan's interview in Summit 47, especially the points he made in support of his assertions that "there's too much celebrity in the climbing media now, it's not real" and "I think that magazines have again lost touch". And then you print five photographs of Lucy Creamer in the same issue. Come, come, surely you can do better than this?

- John Thorogood, Summit 48

Lost dog?

2008-01-08T03:31:00.000-08:00

I've just finished reading the latest edition of Summit which gets better every time. But, poor old Gary Rolfe. By the time I had got from page 8 to 75, he'd lost one dog. Not sure if it was the multimat that got him or the food dryer! Enjoying the read. Keep up the good work.
- Ian Campbell, Summit 48

Time for ticks

2008-01-08T03:30:00.000-08:00

I've only just got around to reading the great article about ticks in Summit 46.The point is made, rightly, that you should remove them properly. Lynda Bramham suggests using tweezers - this is not ideal. The insensitive and unforgiving metal will often break the mouthparts, leaving them buried in the skin, likely to get infected. The easiest and best way is to purchase a special tick-removing tool - an L-shaped piece of plastic or metal, with a very fine slot in the base. This slot takes the head of the tick, and with a deft twist and pull the whole tick is out. I regularly use them on my dogs and they're worth their weight in gold. I understand some paramedics in Australia even have them in their medical kit.
- Bob Hinton, Summit 48

STAR LETTER: Modern times

2007-08-22T03:25:00.000-07:00

How alpinism has changed! Fifty years ago if we got into a mess, we had to get ourselves out of it. Now all you need to do is get out the mobile and call for the helicopter rescue and BMC insurance will pay up - see John Roberts, Summit 46. As an elderly customer of BMC insurance, I pay well over the odds for the privilege. It galls me to think that I, and many other over-70's who still like a bit of modest adventure, are subsidising people like John Roberts who "is a BMC member with a particular talent for getting into scrapes". Meanwhile I and my cautious elderly friends who have never once claimed have to pay up to double the premium. How about a no-claims bonus? However, although each year I pay up through gritted teeth, it is only the BMC insurance scheme that acknowledges retired people are still actively adventurous. Other companies don't want to know.
- Brian Evans, Summit 47

Bare-headed cheek

2007-08-22T03:24:00.000-07:00

I'm astonished that in the issue dealing with Via Ferrata that you chose to publish a full page photo that shows a climber not using one item of basic via ferrata safety - a helmet. Every publication on Via Ferrata routes stresses the importance of a helmet. Does the BMC think it knows better? Shame on you.
- David Stephenson, Summit 47

Troutdale turd

2007-08-22T03:23:00.000-07:00

I read The Issue in Summit 46 with great interest. I think that it is indeed high time that climbers and outdoor enthusiasts treated the environment with the same precision and enthusiasm they do their kit. I recently spent a fantastic week climbing in the Lakes only to have the classic route of Troutdale Pinnacle ruined by the selfish behaviour of a fellow climber - who had left human excrement on the second pitch. Whoever did such an irresponsible act should not to unreported and climbers should be vigilant to others ruining access and enjoyment at the crags for families and groups alike. I do hope that the BMC will be permitted to take strong action in the future with any similar reported incidents.
- Sallyanne Hutchison, Summit 47

Poor forecast

2007-08-22T03:21:00.000-07:00

A weather forecast is essential for safe planning for mountaineers. Unfortunately, for many years weather forecasts for mountain areas have been expensive. But now you can look up free forecasts for several mountain areas. The Met Office is part of the Ministry of Defence and is required by the Treasury to charge wherever possible. Also, a lot of private companies (such as ice cream manufacturers) can profit from better knowledge of coming weather - and the government thinks this somehow entitles it to a share of those profits.

However, government is not a monolith. Those government departments whose job is to promote tourism, agriculture and other industries, as well as those promoting health, sport and exercise, appreciate the safety value of forecasts and want the information locked up inside the Met Office to be made available. In Wales, for example, the Welsh Assembly and the Sports Council for Wales fund the Snowdonia and Brecon Beacons forecasts. This initiative is to be welcomed. Unfortunately the quality of the Met Office service provided in Wales is dire.

The forecasts often fail to appear. When I kept a note for a three-month period, September, October and November 2006, the forecast failed to appear once a month on two consecutive days. There is no space here to detail all the other problems, such as: inconsistent terminology; forecasts cast in terms of what happened yesterday (e.g. “it will be less windy today than yesterday” – which is useless for anyone visiting the area); and, most important, the forecasts for Snowdonia and the Beacons are suspiciously frequently identical.

My reluctant conclusion is that the Met Office service is poor and does not match up to its lavish promises, which means that the Welsh taxpayer is in effect providing an extra subsidy to the Ministry of Defence.
- Paul Gannon, Summit 47

You're making me dizzy

2007-08-22T03:19:00.000-07:00

Summit is going from strength to strength, but I have one "grumpy old man" niggle: upside-down climbing photos. It seems that it is often done to unnecessarily sensationalise a move or position and is irritating and not needed. The other magazines do it a lot and Summit only occasionally (Issue 46, page 74). However please don't go down that line - just retain the quality - that's all that is required.
- Tom Dodd, Summit 47

STAR LETTER: Independance

2007-06-05T04:34:00.002-07:00

In the last issue one letter commented that the Minister for Sport just sees climbing as a means of getting young offenders of the streets. Another that the BMC had lost government funding which could only be regained by the BMC assisting the government in its social engineering agenda.

From the BMC financial report 2006, grants and donations included £56,600 from UK Sport, £191,300 from Sport England, and a further £11,300 from UK Sport in connection with the UIAA. We assume that certain conditions are attached to these grants, but what exactly are they - what does the government want the BMC to provide? While Sport England wish to promote sports participation, some members might argue that we don’t necessarily want to encourage more people to take up our sport with the consequent pressures on the finite natural environment - but we do want to represent the interests of those who have decided to take it up themselves.

The more dependant we are of government the more we will be affected by changes in funding, such as the diversion of funds from grassroots sport to pay for the Olympics. Greater independence can be obtained by developing our trading activities and membership services. It appears from the accounts that the insurance scheme is bringing in almost twice as much as the government grants, and income from subscriptions is almost four times that amount. It's good that we have a dialogue with the Minister, via the lobbying event, but our vision of the BMC may not necessarily coincide with his view of how it can serve government agendas. Let’s know what the deal with government is and debate it, and let’s treasure our independence.
- Geoff Nichols, Sheffield, Summit 46

Made in China

2007-06-05T04:34:00.001-07:00

Ed Douglas is to be complimented on his article in Summit 44 on the Tibetan shootings. The problem for the concerned mountaineer is what to do about it, and not buying that jacket made in China is a bit difficult when just about everything in the shops is produced there now. However UK mountaineers can at least make a collective complaint against the killing of that young nun. In 1982 the UIAA (of which the BMC and the Chinese Mountaineering Federation are members) signed the Katmandu Declaration - nine separate statements of ethical objectives. The third statement says ‘Respect the cultural heritage and dignity of local populations’, something which the Chinese government has certainly not been doing. The BMC should consider making a formal complaint at the next meeting of the UIAA against the actions of the Chinese government.
- K. C. Gordon, Llanllechid, Summit 46

Goosed

2007-06-05T04:33:00.003-07:00

I realise that I may not be responding very smartly, but weren't the "Canadian geese" featured on Page 47 of Summit 45 actually whooper swans? Sincere regards - I'm finding my magazine is getting more interesting each issue. Thank you.
Ian G. Oliver, Summit 46

We are the future

2007-06-05T04:33:00.001-07:00

After reading the note of caution in the "Keeping your club alive" article in Summit 45 we felt a need to reply. Having been family members of an established climbing club for over ten years we've experienced the influences of being associated with a climbing club from a very young age. Meeting other young members has lead to permanent friendships and unique experiences, and we've been extremely lucky to have been part of a group which is on the whole welcoming to kids. Incorporating children into a climbing club should not be viewed as a hindrance, but an addition, broadening the dimensions of an already strong club and creating 'ready made' members. 20-30 year olds were mentioned as being the future, but where are these 20-30 year olds recruited from?
The Mynydd Bach, Summit 46