The latest Climbers’ Club guidebook sees the return of stars to Tremadog; that’s starred routes, not rock climbing stars.
Although no longer at the cutting edge of modern rock climbing, Tremadog has played a significant role in the evolution of modern attitudes and standards, leaving a legacy of beautiful and impressive climbs. Recent conservation work by dedicated volunteers has improved access to the routes through the undergrowth, and reduced the impact of vegetation on some buttresses.
This new guidebook, written by Steve Long, documents the Tremadog cliffs including the two most well-known crags in the area – the BMC owned Bwlch y Moch and the neighbouring Craig Pant Ifan. Their fine climbs, roadside position and proximity to Eric Jones’ Café should ensure their continued popularity.
For those willing to venture a little further from the café, the guidebook provides many alternatives including: recently developed bouldering and sporting climbing at Moel y Gest; the dramatic Carreg Hylldrem, one of the steepest crags in Snowdonia; solitude in the Aberglaslyn Pass; and the picturesque Nant Gwynant valley.
All in all, 39 crags in nine distinct areas, describing over 847 climbs; lavishly illustrated with action photos, colour photo-topos, and crag mapping. The star system returns, having been omitted from the guidebook published in 2000. There's a comprehensive historical section with contributions from Joe Brown and Eric Jones. A complementary online database of routes and first ascent details will also be launched soon.
Tremadog is now available to buy in the BMC online shop
BMC member price: £20.25
Non-member price: £22.50
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