Following reports of recent confrontations between First Hydro security, concerns by local climbers that large numbers of climbers were continuing to use Dali’s Hole during this sensitive time, and the consequent de-bolting of the sports routes at Dali’s by a local climber, various meetings have taken place between BMC , local activists and First Hydro.
Unfortunately due to the way these issues have been reported and discussed on various forums, many of the actual facts have been mis-represented and mis- reported.
The starting point is that the owners of the land, First Hydro have a statutory duty to protect the public (including climbers) from harm as a result of the condition of the land, and have to erect and maintain an appropriate barrier to prevent accidental injury to the public at this site. They have no real desire to restrict climbers’ enjoyment of the area for climbing, and accept that climbers are highly unlikely to pursue any legal action in the event of an accident, are very aware of the risks inherent in rock climbing, and simply want to ensure that they are not legally liable in the event of an accident.
First Hydro have regularly supported mountaineering and outdoor activities in North Wales – they are a major sponsor of the Llanberis Mountain Film Festival, they have supported the local Mountain Rescue team for many years, and continue to sponsor the Snowdon Race and the Snowdonia Marathon. Their Chief Executive is very aware and conscious of the economic and cultural value of climbing at the slate quarries, and wants to actively work with BMC and local climbers to enable climbing to continue at the quarries, but in a way that does not expose First Hydro to potential legal action.
Regular patrols of the site are undertaken by their security staff, as part of their normal routine activity. This is not primarily or directly aimed at climbers, but to ensure that safety fences, signs, etc. are still in place, and to look for any problems such as subsidence on the tracks, vandalism, damage to buildings and so on.
In reality these patrols usually only occur about once a week, but if the security staff see any members of the public (not just climbers) crossing fences, or going beyond safety fences they have a duty to warn them that this is not permissible and that the site has many hidden dangers. First Hydro’s main concern is that many members of the public also cross these fences, including unaccompanied children, and there is a significant risk of legal action against First Hydro if one of these people were injured.
There was a particular issue at Dali’s Hole, as the flooded hole is an attraction in itself, located adjacent to the main public path through the quarry. After the bolting and creation of several easy grade sports routes, this venue became extremely popular, and it was not unusual to see very large numbers of climbers (over 60 on one occasion), mostly novices or climbers under instruction here. Members of the public would see this and would naturally follow climbers over the gate, potentially putting themselves in danger, with little knowledge of the risks.
Reports of night time parties and raves and damage to fences (all unrelated to climbing activities) created further worries for First Hydro. This did create a real and significant risk for First Hydro, who could no longer ignore this issue, and instructions were given to their security staff to instruct members of the public (including climbers) to leave the site if seen in this area. In addition, and very controversially, a new and intrusive fence was erected, which effectively prevented access directly from the public path to Dali’s Hole. However climbers could still access the site, either by abseil or by walking around, on the level below Dali’s Wall.
Following meetings between BMC Wales (Mike Raine and Elfyn Jones) in September, First Hydro’s senior managers explained their position, and stated that while groups of climbers gathering at Dali’s and in very visible locations were a problem for them, they would not be pro-actively targeting climbers or seeking out climbers in other parts of the quarry. Unfortunately it seems that some individual security staff interpreted this instruction differently and in recent weeks there have been a couple of stand-offs between one member of the security staff and climbers.
BMC now understand that written instructions are to be produced for First Hydro’s security staff on how to deal with climbers on the site. These will state that if security staff see climbers climbing over fences or ignoring warning signs, they will be informed that climbing is not allowed due to the dangerous nature of the site and that they should leave. Security staff have been informed that they should not actively seek out climbers, or act in such a way that causes a danger to climbers or incite a confrontation.
However climbers also have to take heed of instructions and consider that the security staff will not be in the area for long, and have to be seen to be carrying out their responsibilities to enable First Hydro to cover their liability. In the event of any altercations occurring please report all incidents directly to the BMC. It goes without saying that climbers also have to ensure that they are respectful to the security staff and avoid damaging fences or other structures.
In the short term local climbers have agreed that Dali’s Hole shall remain bolt free, but most climbers recognise that this area provides a valuable, accessible and relatively safe entry level sports climbing venue for novice climbers. BMC and local climbers are now actively engaged with First Hydro to investigate a way that this venue can be managed that allows climbers to continue using this venue, but minimising the liability problems for First Hydro.
There is no easy answer or short term-solution at this complex venue, but all parties are willing to discuss all the options (including a possible lease or formal access agreement to part of the site) that will allow Dali’s Hole to be used by groups in the future, while protecting climbers access to the rest of this really important venue.