MoD placing belay stakes at Range West.
Range West in Pembrokeshire is arguably one of the last true bastions of traditional climbing in Britain, and its pure ethic of ground up first ascents, no fixed equipment, and adventurous style gives some amazing climbing.
However Range West is also a live military firing range, and for many years BMC and local activists have campaigned hard to obtain access to this limestone coastline. Apart from occasional subversive visits, access to climbers was denied here, mainly on the grounds of safety, as the whole of Range West is still a live firing range, and unexploded ordnance (unexploded bombs) abound.
Some limited access for climbers has been negotiated here by the BMC for the last few years, thanks to the work of local climbers, the National Park authority and the MOD. Bizarrely, despite the tanks firing live ammunition, the range is also internationally important as a site for nesting sea birds (guillemots, razorbills) as well as chough and peregrine falcons, and seasonal restrictions also apply to most of the cliffs.
Because of its status as a live range all climbers who wish to climb here in 2010 must attend one of three formal briefings at Castlemartin Army camp. The dates for 2010 are:
- Saturday 29 May
- Saturday 19 June
- Saturday 31 July
The briefings start at 9am and all who wish to attend must arrive at the Castlemartin camp guardhouse by 9am. Unfortunately it is MOD policy across all UK military ranges that all climbers have to attend a briefing, and it is not possible for a briefed climber to "sign-in" an un-briefed climber. Pre-booking for these briefings is not required, simply turn up at the camp at 9am on any of the dates listed.
Please note also that due to the presence of unexploded bombs, belay stakes should not be placed at Range West, unless the exact location has been authorised by the MoD's bomb disposal teams!