Russians Mikhail Mikhailov and Alexander Ruchkin have climbed most likely the hardest technical line to date in the Minya Konka Group of Chinese Sichuan
The pair originally planned to attempt the impressive South East Face of E Gongga (Mt. Edgar, 6,618m), a large, steep, mixed granite wall, not dissimilar to the headwall on the North Face Direct of Jannu, which Ruchkin had successfully climbed in 2004 (Mikhailov was also on this expedition but did not summit).
Their first problem was getting to the area. The two had planned to arrive in mid-March, but were told at the last minute that the Chinese had cancelled their permit because of the 50th anniversary celebrations in Tibet. Fortunately, a month later China reopened its doors, the project became viable, and the two flew to Chengdu, reaching base camp at 3,150m on the 22nd April.
Plagued by constant bad weather, the two were prevented from ever seeing the face during the next two weeks.
However, during their acclimatization they spotted a superb rock pillar on the unnamed and unclimbed Pt 6,134m, that lies north west of Edgar and close to Grosvenor, a fine 6,367m pyramid first climbed in 2003 by Julie-Ann Clyma and Roger Payne.
The pillar faced south, was steep enough to shrug off most fresh snow, and offered an attractive alternative. When the weather began to clear, the two switched objectives, and after a bivouac at the base, climbed the 1,000m-high pillar to the South East Top, making four further bivouacs.
Technical difficulties are not currently known, but the central section of the wall gave steep, hard rock climbing. The pair made their fifth bivouac on the North West Top and then descended the South West face in a day.
In the accompanying photograph the red line shows the ascent of the South Pillar and the green the descent of the South West Face.
Despite taking part in big siege ascents, Ruchkin, one of Russia's most talented alpinists, has always favoured a lighter style, an approach at variance with traditional Soviet expeditions. His goals now are directed towards exploring remoter mountain ranges and climbing good routes, with small teams, in alpine-style.
E Gongga has been climbed only once. In 2001 a expedition from the Mokpo University Alpine Club in Korea placed three camps on the prominent snow and ice spur of the West Face before reaching the summit.
The E stands for Edgar, by which this summit is more commonly known. Huston Edgar was a New Zealand missionary and archeologist with the China Inland Mission. He visited this area in 1911 with the British explorer FM Bailey, and was an important developer of the historical and topographical knowledge of the region.
Elsewhere in the Minya Konka Group this season, a small American-New Zealand team comprising Lydia Bradey, Penny Goddard and Mark Jenkins almost climbed the virgin Nyambo Konka (6,114m). Jenkins had attempted the peak previously. Despite logistical difficulties on the approach, the three climbed the East Face to the summit ridge, where heavy cornicing prevented them reaching the highest point.
This report was compiled with help from Tom Nakamura and Alex Ruchkin
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