BMC negotiate access to Craig y Forwyn, ending a 20-year ban
This is a cause for celebration! The BMC has just re-secured access to Craig y Forwyn – a premier trad limestone crag in North Wales. After a ban of nearly twenty years, an agreement has been reached with the owner, and it is open for business once more.
Access was originally lost due to parking issues, so it is essential that you follow the new parking advice. It is vital that you do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road – otherwise access will be lost again.
Guy Keating, BMC Access Officer is very pleased: “After 18 months of background spadework and discussions with the landowner, local climbers and the Countryside Council for Wales, we are over the moon that we have been able to make this outstanding crag available to climbers again. It really is a fantastic place – a sheltered woodland sun trap, packed with high calibre routes and only 10 minutes from the A55. Enjoy.”
If you’re heading to Craig y Forwyn, be aware that the crag has seen very little activity from climbers during the ban, and as a result some of the routes contain large swathes of ivy. This can make the routes dirty, and loosen flakes and blocks – be careful.
How to access Craig y Forwyn
Do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road – otherwise access will be lost. The correct parking is located at a hairpin bend off the Trawscoed Road, in a field above the crag at OS Grid 902(5) 764(5).
To get to this spot, drive along the Isallt Rd. below the escarpment, passing Plas Newydd Caravan Park. At 2 km beyond the caravan park, follow the road as it bends to the right to pass a Chapel on the right. At the following T-junction, turn right and proceed along Dolwen Rd. for approximately 200m until a sharp right turn along Trawscoed Rd. Pass along Trawscoed Rd. for approximately 900m (the last 100m are quite rough) until a sharp right hand hairpin with two gates on the left. Go through the metal gate and park on the grass either side of the farmers track/North Wales Footpath. The field quickly drops away towards the crag, so take care not to park too far down the slope.
Accessing the crag from the agreed parking is easy and convenient - walk from down the inclined field and head for a stile in the right hand corner. This will take you directly into the left hand sections of the crag.
A map will soon be available on the BMC website.
View the Regional Access Database entry for Craig y Forwyn - for the first time ever with with a green "access OK" symbol!
By Guy Keating
