This autumn a four-member team of like-minded friends from the Alpine Club became the first climbers to explore the head of the little-known Obra Valley, an area of sub-6,000m peaks west of the Bandarpunch-Swargarohini Group in India's far Western Garhwal.
After driving to the road head at Jakhol via Mussoorie, Derek Buckle, Toto Gronlund, Martin Scott and Bill Thurston made a three-day trek to a scenic grassy base camp at 4,055m, arriving in early October.
The middle reaches of the Obra are dominated by the splendid icy Ranglana (5,554m), which had previously been the main objective of the only other climbing team to visit this valley: the British pair Gerry and Louise Wilson, with Indian Himalaya guru Harish Kapadia and seven friends.
Conditions were poor during this 2006 visit and only a lower summit, Dhodu Ka Gunchha (5,130m), was climbed. Ranglana was not attempted, and neither were the highest peaks, Pts 5,849m and 5,760m, which lie at the head of the valley above the Devkir Glacier.
In 2008 access to the upper Devkir proved lengthy and complex, consuming much time in reconnaissance and failed attempts. In addition, the weather pattern - clear mornings normally followed by afternoon cloud and snowfall - curtailed daily activity. When the climbers finally reached the 5,325m Zupika Col, separating the two high peaks at the top of the glacier, they discovered the rocky South East Ridge of 5,849m to be steep, loose and uninviting.
Fortunately, the fine, corniced, snow arête forming the North West Ridge of the lower 5,760m looked eminently climbable. Caching some gear, the four descended to a lower camp, aiming to get established on the col the following day.
With the help of two Sherpas, camp was set up just below the pass early on the 14th October, but by afternoon the snowfall was heavy. Next morning was no better: underfoot conditions had become worrying, and after ploughing through deep avalanche-prone snow for less than 100m above the col, they realized it wasn't going to happen.
Zero visibility pinned them at camp until the morning of the 16th, when they were able to make their escape to base camp.
Two days later Buckle and Gronlund snatched a consolation prize, ascending the first valley north of base camp to a small col, then up the South West Ridge of Pt 5,165m at Alpine PD. The name of Lammergeyer Peak has been suggested for this previously virgin summit, which provided a splendid viewpoint.
This expedition, which received BMC Approval, was originally destined for Tibet and unclimbed peaks in the Western Nyanchen Tanglha. With Tibet closed to climbers prior to the Beijing Olympics and absolutely no certainty that the situation would change later in the year, the four decided to cancel early and concentrate on organizing an alternative, quickly accepting Kapadia's recommendation of the unexplored Obra Valley.
The team feel this area offers great potential for Alpine climbing and recommends further exploration: for instance, during 2006 Kapadia photographed impressive granite walls and towers north west of the middle valley (but not visible from the valley floor), which he named the Jairai Rocks. In addition there is the attractive Ranglana; but it will not be an easy catch.
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