posted on 14/06/2007

BMC Peak District guidebooks

the fabulous Prow at Wilton 1
A brief introduction to the BMC's range of rock climbing guidebooks to the Peak District.

Froggatt to Black Rocks
ISBN: 978-0-903908-09-2


The new testament for the finest eastern crags.

A definitive guide to all routes and bouldering in the southern reaches of the eastern edges. This book takes all the great features of the recent BMC series and makes them bigger and better to give a truly bumper and breathtaking guide. Produced in stunning full colour throughout and featuring some of the best climbing photography yet seen in a guide. The descriptions are the product of years of dedicated research by the area’s most committed locals. Combine all this with a fresh and entertaining presentation and you will have the only guide you will ever need for these crags.

Crags covered: Froggatt, Curbar, Yarncliffe, Baslow and Tegness, the Gardom’s Area (Gardom’s, Birchen, Chatsworth), the Cratcliffe Area (Cratcliffe, Robin Hood’s Stride, Stanton Moor, Rowtor), the Matlock Area (Black Rocks, Duke’s Quarries, Robin Hood’s Quarries, Shining Cliff, Secret Garden) and the Amber Valley (Turning Stone Edge, Eastwood Rocks, Cocking Tor).

First edition 2010.
536 pages, full-colour
2,200 climbs routes, 1,100 boulder problem
price: members £20; non-members £24

Download a sample chapter here
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Lancashire Rock
ISBN: 0-903908-82-4

A deep dark definitive guide to the deep dark quarries.

A definitive guide to all rock climbs in the Lancashire area, from the quarries and edges of the gritstone area in the south, to the limestone escarpments in the north. Many of the crags are within easy reach if the cities of Blackburn, Bolton and Rochdale and provide an invaluable resource for the climbers in these areas.

Crags covered: Wilton 1, 2 and 3, Anglezarke, Hoghton, Craig y Longridge, Brownstones, Trowbarrow, Egerton, Witches, Fairy Steps, Hutton Roof, Woodwell

First edition 1999. Reissued in revised form in 2006.
536 pages, 2 colour with full-colour action pictures
3,200 climbs, gritstone traditional routes, limestone traditional routes
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Stanage
ISBN: 978-0-903908-0-85

The queen’s new clothes.

A definitive guide to the crag known as The Queen of Grit. Detailing all the routes and all the bouldering along the three miles of this magnificent crag, it is the essential definitive guide to anyone climbing on the crag. Exhaustive information is supplemented by superb action shots and full-colour topos. This guide features, for the first time in a British guide, sets of bouldering circuits, set out in grade ranges along the crag. Also features a personal selection of 5 favourite routes from over forty climbers.

Crags covered:
Stanage, Carhead Rocks


First published 2007
388 pages, full colour throughout
2,400 climbs, gritstone traditional routes, gritstone bouldering
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Burbage, Millstone and Beyond
ISBN: 0-903908-77-8

From Bamford to Banff, the award-winning guide that will bring a smile to your face.

A definitive guide to the gritstone edges near the city of Sheffield, covering routes and bouldering. An award-winning guide that combines exhaustive research and detailed information with inspiration and entertainment, as well as great historical information.

Crags covered: Burbage Valley, Higgar Tor, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Rivelin, Bamford, Derwent Edge, Wharncliffe, Agden Rocher, Stannington Ruffs

First published 2006
388 pages, full colour throughout
3,000 climbs, gritstone traditional routes, gritstone bouldering
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Staffordshire Grit: The Roaches
ISBN: 978-0-903908-18-4

The bumper-fun guidebook that will bring untold pleasure to any toilet visit.

The tremendous crags of the Western Edges get the treatment in this well loved guidebook, which was the first in the latest series of guides from the BMC, and really set the standard for those to follow. Fun, inspiration and information are all dealt out in equal measure. Written by the most committed local activists, you will be finding new adventures between the covers of this beautiful book for years to come

Crags covered: The Roaches, Hen Cloud, Ramshaw, Baldstones, Newstones, Windgather, Castle Naze, Bosley Cloud, The Churnet Valley, ERF Rocks

First published 2009 
400 pages, full colour throughout
2,400 climbs, gritstone traditional routes, gritstone bouldering
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From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill
ISBN: 0-903908-72-7

Gary’s Kwality Kwarries.

A guide covering mid-grade sport climbs in the Buxton and Matlock areas, with routes mainly in the F6a to F7a grade range.

Crags covered: Horseshoe, Hall Dale, Intake, Devonshire Buttress, Blatant Buttress, Blackwell Halt, Smalldale, Harpur Hill

First Published 2004
144 pages, full colour throughout
750 climbs, limestone sport routes
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Peak Limestone – Wye Valley
ISBN: 0-903908-22-0

A two-part behemoth that covers, amongst other routes, Behemoth.

A definitive guide to the limestone crags along the banks of the River Wye, in the Buxton area of the Peak District. The guide covers both sport and traditional climbs in the three main areas – Chee Dale, Miller’s Dale and Water-cum-Jolly – and also comes with a separate volume covering the rich history of the area.

Crags covered: Long Wall, Two Tier, Blackwell Halt, The Embankment, Max Wall, The Cornice, Chee Tor, Plum Buttress, Raven Tor, Rubicon Wall, Central Wall

First published 1999
540 pages, 2 colour with full-colour action pictures
1,700 climbs, limestone traditional routes, limestone sport routes
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Peak Limestone: Stoney

ISBN: 0-903908-11-5

Polished horrors have never sounded so good.

This survivor from the old series of Peak Limestone guides still gives all the information you will need to explore the masses of great traditional limestone climbs in the Stoney and Castleton area. Classics lie left, right and centre in this guide, and still present as much of a challenge as they ever did.

Crags covered: Stoney Middleton, Stoney Quarry, Ravensdale, Staden Quarry, Cavedale, Aldery Cliff, Cucklet Delf

First published 1986
284 pages, black and white with colour pictures
1,800 climbs, limestone traditional routes, limestone sport routes
Price: Members - £8.00, non-members - £9.95


Moorland Gritstone: Chew Valley

ISBN: 0-903908-51-4

The heart and the soul of ‘The Greenfield Alps’.

One of the best written guides of its generation, the guide to the gritstone crags in the Greenfield / Holmforth area in the north of the Peak continues to inspire and entertain From the stately, dark edges of Wimberry and Ravenstones to the quarried technicalities of Upperwood and Running Hill Pits, this guidebook contains a lifetime’s worth of adventure.

Crags covered: Wimberry, Rob’s Rocks, Dovestones Quarry, Ravenstones, Standing Stones, Upperwood Quarry, Alderman, Running Hill Pits, Wilderness Rocks, Duck Stones

First published 1988
302 pages, black and white with colour pictures
1,600 climbs, gritstone traditional routes, gritstone bouldering
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Kinder

ISBN: 0-903908-76-X

Moor routes than you can shake a stick insect at.

When the summer brings hot sweaty conditions to the eastern and western edges, where is the committed gritstoner to go? Onto the high moors, of course. The rim of outcrops that surround the breathtaking landscape of the Kinder and Bleaklow plateaux offer unparalleled adventure on the doorstep of the vast populace of Manchester and Sheffield. The mountainous aspect a hundred-year tradition, combined with the sheer quality of the climbs makes these routes an essential part of the gritstone experience.

Crags covered: The Kinder Edges, Shining Clough, Yellowslacks, The Grinnah Stones, New Mills Tors, Windgather, Castle Naze, Hobson Moor Quarry, Tintwistle Knarr, Laddow, Bareholme Crag, Buxworth Railway Crag

First published 1990
412 pages, black and white with colour pictures
2,800 climbs, gritstone traditional routes
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On Peak Rock
ISBN: 0-903908-91-3

A quirky workhorse that’s good to gallop.

A real workhorse of a guide, with functional and all encompassing coverage of the vast range of crags in the Peak District. No other guide comes close to the breadth of routes that this contains. Detailing all the Eastern and Western Edges, the Kinder and Bleaklow areas, Chew and Longdendale, Buxton and Southern Limestone, all in one bumper volume. As well as this there are endless quirky additions to the guide, such as celebrations of esoteria that bring a special and lovable character to the book. The essential visitor’s guide.

Crags covered: Stanage, Froggatt, Curbar, The Roaches, Hen Cloud, Ramshaw, Chee Dale, Water-cum-Jolly, Raven Tor, Dovedale, Beeston Tor, Manifold Valley, High Tor, Wildcat, Willersey, Upper Tor, Nether Tor, Kinder Downfall, Shining Clough, Upperwood Quarry, Tintwistle Knarr, Stoney Middleton, Rivelin Edge, Wharncliffe, Cratcliffe Tor, Bamford, Gardoms, Birchens, Black Rocks, Burbage, Dobb Edge Pinnacle.

First edition 1993. Reissued in revised form in 2003.
416 pages, 2 colour with full-colour action pictures
1,500 climbs, gritstone traditional routes, gritstone bouldering, limestone traditional climbs, limestone sport routes
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By Niall Grimes