Things are stirring in Cheddar Gorge. Martin Crocker, Cheddar Gorge Climbing Project Coordinator explains.
"Upon investigation it soon became apparent that the natural cliffs of limestone had no place as a climbing ground," so exclaimed Graham Balcombe, the originator of Piton route in the Avon Gorge in 1936. His distaste for Somerset’s loose natural limestone crags might have represented how many others have felt about Cheddar Gorge from time to time. When it comes to ‘denial’, of all the great crags I know in Britain I can’t think of a more apt and little-exploited target than Cheddar Gorge.
It might escape politicians but perhaps the best chance of turning public opinion around is not through words but through action: to enable people, climbers, to benefit first-hand and, in this case, to climb on these unique and atmospheric crags which have been lamed by a harsh winter-only climbing season and the unavoidable effects of recent land-management operations.
Over the decades many climbers have wondered at the dream of “summer access” to Cheddar Gorge and how this could unlock its true potential as a climbing venue. Dream? Maybe not, at least not for a fairly merry band of locals who are awake and rising to a challenge, the first real chance ever, for the quiet limestone giant of Britain to rear up from the shadows and be itself.
Over the past four decades, I’ve charted how vegetation in the Gorge has come and gone, phases of exploration have competed for press coverage with more established areas, and the owners have had to face the monumental task of maintaining their land so that is safe for the public and preserves its unique conservation interest. Much of the Gorge’s worst loose rock and ivy has now been removed and there are rock-catch fences beneath many of the cliffs.
Moreover the owners appear to recognise that climbers should now have as much an entitlement to use the cliffs as the motorists who drive up the Gorge’s winding road - provided we do so responsibly. The expression of their goodwill is an opportunity for us, unfolding now as routes on the main cliffs of the south side are restored, re-cleaned and re-geared under the guise of the Cheddar Gorge Climbing Project. To quote one of the audience in last November’s BMC-facilitated Open Meeting now is the time “to get on with it”.
I admit it, over the years, I’ve been tormenting BMC Officers, trying to seek specific support to improve the access regime in the Gorge, particularly in combination with improved public safety standards. They were always sympathetic, but understandably had more popular fish to fry - until now. With the unease of the twentieth century behind, a clearer vision that access is what climbers want most from the BMC seems to have evolved.
And here, perhaps, was a project that could have the potential to deliver a piece of good-quality access without getting engorged by bureaucracy. Hence the Project starting October 2003, hence my role as its coordinator, hence further support from The Climbers’ Club, and hence a gaggle of local climbers who are running about headless waiting for the crags and routes to become available once again and - touch rock - for extended access.
I’m hard at it. As a consequence I reckon I now hold the record for the number of ascents and descents of Shoot Gully: that maligned and treacherous gully of sloping, muddy ledges, awkward steps, and dusk-time slithers and slips. It’s often my way to the cliff-top and a means to start the process of inspection, risk-assessment, note taking, cleaning and re-gearing of a selection of the finest crags and climbs in the Gorge. I follow Soay sheep out along precarious terraces where they graze oblivious of gravity, to set up 100-metres of static line that takes me over climbs I haven’t seen for 10, 20, or 30 years.
And what climbs they are - Warlord, Caesar, Return of the Gunfighter, Thor - awesome climbs amongst scores more adventure and sport climbs across the grades: all setting themselves up for a green light to realise their potential - for climbers. And any loose rock of significant size remaining on the selected climbs is removed with the invaluable help of Cheddar Caves staff, who expertly manage the necessary road closures and offer advice and goodwill.
While not in a position to assume that extended access is guaranteed, it has been a pleasure to preside over an unsurpassed optimism and welcome from all quarters that persuades me that the odds at the current time are very good indeed. So what can you do? You can join in by taking a fresh look at Cheddar Gorge, making a contribution to the Cheddar Gorge Climbers’ Bolt Fund, supporting the local volunteers, and, ultimately, climbing there safely and informed - whatever the season.
By Martin Crocker
This feature article originally appeared in Summit
33. Opinions expressed are of the author - not necessarily
the BMC, and should be taken in the context of time.
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